Last Meal in Cuenca

Joanne Mulcahy recommended two restaurants in Cuenca that she and her husband especially liked. One was Tiesto's which I've already blogged about. The other is called El Maiz. El Maiz is also highly touted in in our guide book. We tried a couple of times to go there and it was not open, maybe having to do with the holiday weekend. But on a Sunday afternoon, before our bus left for Ibarra in the evening we decided to try El Maiz again and see if we could get a really good meal, since we would be on the bus all night. A well-dressed waiter greeted us at the door and seated us on the outdoor patio (our choice). There were only two other parties there, one at a long table with what looked to be a big family gathering. A woman who appeared to be the proprietor was there and seemed to be a little grouchy.

Did we get there right at closing time? Oh well, our waiter was cheerful enough. We ordered a dish called troncha, which is said to be a Cuenca specialty. It is a braised beef that is first marinated in vinegar. It was served with tostones (fried plantains) and a very good salad made with quinoa, beans and corn. The beef reminded me very much of sauerbraten. Before the entree we were served a complimentary locro soup which the waiter informed us was always served on Sunday. Soon we were the only ones in the place and the owner was still grumpy. As we settled up with the waiter (only about $8 each) we asked if they were closed. He explained that they are really only open on Sunday for special parties by reservation. But he apparently decided to serve us anyway. Now we knew why the boss was grouchy. It was a fine meal, and just what we were hoping for before our long bus ride.